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The Art of Exfoliation PDF Print E-mail
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I
love the feeling of a fresh, smooth and radiant "brand new" skin and that is probably why I am addicted to exfoliators. With so many types of peelings on the market it is hard to decide which one to buy. Which will suit your complexion the best? Depending on your skin type and whether you have any particular problem with your skin, a different product is recommended.

Why do we need to exfoliate in the first place? Well I am not going to tell you that you have to exfoliate because this simply is not true. But I do recommend you do it. You can benefit a lot if you use an exfoliator suitable for your skin often enough. Normal skins can be exfoliated once or twice per week while dry and sensitive skins every week or every two weeks. Oily skins can be exfoliated even up to four times a week.

You can use an exfoliator to:

- get rid of dead skin cells,

- unclog skin pores – remove the trapped oil and grime beneath the skin surface, in the pores,

- fade discoloration left for example after acne,

- reduce the appearance of scars,

- improve blood and lymph circulation in skin cells,

- promote a radiant looking skin.

In addition beauty products applied after exfoliation will be better absorbed into your skin. Having spent your hard earned money on a good anti-aging cream you surely want to make sure it will work its best on your skin.  It is recommended that you always use a moisturiser after exfoliation.

There are many types of exfoliators for different skin needs and likings. I am going to present you three main groups of facial exfoliators that you can use at home. Choose a type that suits your skin needs and watch your complexion improving after every use.

Mechanical srubs 

The most popular type of an exfoliator is mechanical one. They are usually in the form of thick cream or emulsion containing rough particles for example ground nut shells, milled apricot pits, salt or sugar, sometimes jojoba beads or polymer particles. You exfoliate by rubbing the product against your skin. This variety of exfoliators is recommended for rather insensitive and non-problematic skins. Beware acneic skins. It is very easy to spread acne-causing bacteria all over your face when using a mechanical exfoliator.

You can also easily exfoliate your complexion with a facial buffer or a facial loofah when washing your face.

I recommend an oatmeal peeling every week or two. It is gentle enough for almost every skin type. You just need some rolled oats and warm water. Mix together and let oats soften. Apply the paste to your face and rub gently. Wash it off with water and a delicate cleanser.

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Mechanical exfoliators

1. St Ives – Apricot Scrub contains milled apricot pits

2. Origins – Swept Clean – added jojoba beads and activated charcoal

3. Lush –Ocean Salt

4. The Body Shop – Facial Buffer

5. BeneFit – Honey…snap out of it! – a daily oatmeal and honey exfoliator

Micro-dermabrasion 

Popular variety of mechanical exfoliators is so called "home micro-dermabrasion" which contains very small crystalline particles i.e. aluminium oxide or very thinly milled salt. It is recommended for discolorations, an uneven skin texture, enlarged skin pores and for rather thick skins as there is a lot of rubbing involved.

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Micro-dermabrasion products
 

1. Sanctuary -  Warming Microbrasion Polish – has small particles of salt

2. L’Oreal Paris – ReFinish -  with aluminium oxide micro-crystals

3. Olay – Regenerist Daily Thermal Skin Polisher – containing iron oxides and glycolic acid

4. Vichy -  Normaderm Clearer Skin Renovating System – with aluminium oxides micro crystals and salicylic acid

5. Origins – Modern Friction – added exfoliating rice starch

Do not use a mechanical exfoliator if your skin is extremely thin and delicate and/or you suffer from broken capillaries or acne.

Enzymatic exfoliators 

Another popular type of exfoliators is an enzymatic exfoliator. They contain enzymes that dissolve dead skin cells on contact. These products are usually very delicate and are suitable for dry, thin skins, as well as for complexions with visible capillaries and pimples. This is probably the most versatile exfoliator providing that you are not allergic to the particular enzymes used in the product. Some fruits like pineapple, papaya, pumpkin and kiwi contain protein-resolving enzymes. Not only these enzymes improve digestion but can be very well used for the benefit of your skin. Just make sure that you are not allergic to these fruits before the application. Blend a large chunk of pineapple with thick natural, sugar-free yoghurt and apply a thin layer of the mixture onto the face avoiding the eye area. Leave on for about 10-15 minutes and wash off with a delicate cleanser. This home exfoliating mask combines beneficial actions of lactic acid in yoghurt and pineapple enzymes.

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Enzymatic exfoliators
 

1. The Body Shop – VitC Re-Texturising Peel –  enriched with papaya and pumpkin enzymes

2. Lancome – Exfoliance Clarte – has exfoliating grains, pineapple and papaya enzymes

3. Trilogy – Gentle Facial Exfoliant – combined honey enzymes and jojoba micro spheres

4. Elemis – Papaya Enzyme Peel

Do not use enzymatic exfoliator if you are allergic to the enzymes used in the exfoliator.

Chemical peels 

The third group of exfoliators is chemical peels, they can contain beta hydroxy acid (BHA) - salicylic acid or alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) for example glycolic acid and lactic acid. Home chemical peels contain a low percentage of acid, safe enough to use on your own at home. These products will make oily, congested and tired skins look their best again.

Exfoliators containing salicylic acid are beneficial for acneic skins. They effectively dissolve skin blockages and, when used regularly, prevent skin from clogging and speed up cell renewal. I came across dermatologists' opinions that the most effective percentage of salicylic acid against pimples is 2%.

As per glycolic acid it is beneficial for the skins with an uneven texture, scarred and with hyperpigmentation. It is said to even help decrease wrinkles.

Every now and then I would prepare an aspirin exfoliator for myself. Aspirin is chemically similar to salicylic acid. I crush three tablets of soluble but not fizzy aspirin in a small amount of water. You can add some natural yoghurt and then apply to the face for about 15 minutes. Avoid contact with eyes. Be careful and perform allergy test 48 hours before the procedure.

It is essential to apply a product protecting against UV rays when you use a chemical exfoliator. Acids make your skin UV sensitive and you can end up with discolorations and burns if you do not protect your complexion properly. You have to wear broad spectrum blockers against UVA and UVB rays after the treatment.

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Acid scrubs
 

1. Clinique – Clarifying Lotion 3 – containing salicylic acid

2. L’Oreal Paris – ReNoviste with 10% glycolic acid

3. Garnier – Pure Purifying Peel Kit – combines the benefits of pumice and glycolic, salicylic and lactic acids

4. Neutrogena – Visibly Clear Blackhead Eliminating Daily Scrub – with salicylic acid

Do not use acid exfoliator if:  you are using face products or supplements with retinol, you are suffering from skin diseases, for example herpes or you are planning to tan in the near future.

Never use any exfoliator on a broken or inflamed skin and discontinue application of the product if irritation, allergy or rash occurs.

Do not be afraid to use an exfoliator. Just make sure that you choose the product that respects your skin’s needs. Make your skin look its best – radiant and smooth all year round.

 
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